The Complicated History of Surfing

Surfing, often associated with leisure and recreation, boasts a rich and complex history that extends far beyond its modern image. Originating in the Polynesian islands of the Pacific Ocean, wave riding held deep spiritual and social significance for the people of Hawaii.

Ancient Roots in Polynesia

Wave riding was practiced throughout Polynesian Pacific, West Africa, and Peru. However, it was in the Hawaiian archipelago where surfing truly flourished. Unlike other regions, surfing in Hawaii was meticulously documented and preserved, becoming an integral part of the culture.

Surfing and Hawaiian Society

In ancient Hawaii, surfing was more than just a pastime; it was a deeply ingrained aspect of society. Governed by a strict code of rules and taboos known as kapu, nearly every element of surfing held significance:

Offerings were made when selecting a tree for carving surfboards.
Priests, or kahuna, were consulted to pray for favorable waves.
Gratitude was expressed after surviving dangerous wipeouts.

Certain surf breaks were reserved exclusively for the elite, highlighting the sport's connection to social hierarchy. However, surfing also involved spirited competition, with individuals wagering on who could ride the farthest, fastest, or catch the biggest wave. Success in surfing brought respect, social status, and even romantic opportunities.

Surfboard Diversity

While often called the sport of kings, surfing was enjoyed by Hawaiian men and women of all ages and social classes. They rode surfboards crafted from various types of wood:

Alaia: Thin, midsized boards resembling modern shortboards.
Paipo: Short, round-nosed boards ridden while lying on the stomach.
Olo: Massive boards, twice the length of today's longboards, reserved for chieftains.

Notably, these boards lacked fins, requiring surfers to use their hands or feet for turning.

Suppression and Revival

Wave sliding had been practiced in Polynesia for centuries before being described in 1777 by William Anderson, a surgeon on Captain Cook’s ship “Resolution.” While Anderson was impressed, American Christian missionaries who arrived in Hawaii several decades later viewed surfing as sinful and discouraged it, along with other aspects of native culture.

The most significant threat to surfing was the decline of the Hawaiian population due to diseases introduced by Europeans and Americans. By 1890, the native population had dwindled dramatically. Simultaneously, foreign influence grew, culminating in the overthrow of the native monarchy in 1893 and the US annexation of the islands five years later.

The end of Hawaii's independence coincided with a native-led surfing revival, which was soon exploited by American colonizers.

Surfing Goes Global

In 1907, George Freeth, known as the "Hawaiian Wonder," introduced surfing to the west coast of the United States, giving demonstrations in southern California. In 1914, Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku traveled to Australia and New Zealand, captivating audiences with his wave-riding skills.

Alexander Hume Ford, a South Carolinian who moved to Hawaii, became an advocate for surfing. However, his motives were not entirely altruistic. Ford aimed to attract white Americans to Hawaii, hoping to shift the demographic balance and facilitate its annexation by the United States. While Ford's demographic plan ultimately failed, his promotion of surfing proved remarkably successful.

Surfing Today

Today, surfing is a multi-billion-dollar global industry, enjoyed by millions worldwide. While many modern surfers may be unaware of the ancient wave chants and board carving rituals, Hawaiians continue to preserve these traditions, ensuring that they are not lost to the waves of history.