The Bitter-Sweet History of Chocolate

If you can't imagine life without chocolate, you might be surprised to learn that this beloved treat has a history far more complex and fascinating than you might think. For centuries, chocolate existed only as a bitter, foamy drink in Mesoamerica. How did it transform into the sweet, solid bars we enjoy today?

From Bitter Drink to Royal Treat

As far back as 1900 BCE, the people of Mesoamerica were preparing the beans of the native cacao tree. They ground the beans and mixed them with cornmeal and chili peppers, creating a bitter, invigorating drink. This was far from the relaxing cup of hot cocoa we know today!

The Mesoamericans held cacao in high regard, believing it to be a heavenly food gifted by a feathered serpent god, known as Kukulkan to the Maya and Quetzalcoatl to the Aztecs. The Aztecs even used cacao beans as currency and consumed chocolate at royal feasts, offering it to soldiers as a reward and using it in religious rituals.

Chocolate's Transatlantic Journey

The first encounter between Europeans and chocolate occurred in 1519 when Hernán Cortés visited the court of Moctezuma. The king offered the Spanish conquistadors the chocolate drink in golden cups. When the colonists returned to Europe with the strange new bean, it quickly gained a reputation as an aphrodisiac.

Initially, the bitter taste of chocolate made it suitable as a medicine for ailments like upset stomachs. However, sweetening it with honey, sugar, or vanilla soon transformed it into a popular delicacy in the Spanish court. Before long, no aristocratic home was complete without dedicated chocolate ware.

The Rise of Mass Production and Ethical Concerns

The production of chocolate on a large scale was difficult and time-consuming, relying on plantations and imported slave labor in the Caribbean and on islands off the coast of Africa. The world of chocolate changed forever in 1828 with the invention of the cocoa press by Coenraad van Houten of Amsterdam.

Van Houten's invention separated the cocoa's natural fat, or cocoa butter, leaving a powder that could be mixed into a drinkable solution or recombined with the cocoa butter to create solid chocolate. Not long after, a Swiss chocolatier named Daniel Peter added powdered milk to the mix, inventing milk chocolate.

By the 20th century, chocolate had transitioned from an elite luxury to a treat for the masses. Meeting the growing demand required more cultivation of cocoa, which can only grow near the equator. Cocoa production shifted to West Africa, with Cote d'Ivoire becoming the leading producer.

However, this growth has come at a cost. The industry has been plagued by horrific abuses of human rights. Many plantations throughout West Africa, which supply Western companies, use slave and child labor, with an estimated two million children affected. This complex problem persists despite efforts from major chocolate companies to address these issues.

Chocolate in Modern Culture

Today, chocolate is deeply embedded in our modern culture. Due to its colonial association with native cultures, combined with the power of advertising, chocolate retains an aura of something sensual, decadent, and forbidden.

Knowing more about the fascinating and often cruel history of chocolate, as well as its production today, helps us understand the origins of these associations and what they hide. So, as you unwrap your next bar of chocolate, take a moment to consider that not everything about chocolate is sweet.